January 18, 2019
We might only be a couple weeks into 2019 but the non-stop fashion world is already prepped and primed for runway season! As always, we’re kicking it off with the Fall/Winter 2019 menswear collections.
Menswear is currently bigger than ever: research shows that the market is on track to overtake womenswear by 2020. Fashion brands and designers have reacted to this by expanding or launching a menswear line to tap into this rising market. For example, Celine and The Row, brands that primarily cater to women, joined this year’s menswear fashion week for the first time.
Now, onto the main event – the menswear trends.
Key Menswear Trends of Fall/Winter 2019
The biggest surprise of the season was the lack of streetwear, which was one of the biggest game-changers for 2018. In Milan, Prada and Fendi, all who have dabbled in streetwear at one point or another, have decided to ditch athleisure in favour of tailoring. The same sentiments were shared by streetwear pros Off-white and Vetements, offering a more grown-up take to the trend by featuring hoodies and sweatshirts in neutral colours and modest prints.From left: Fendi, Prada, Louis Vuitton. Image Source: Fendi, Prada and Louis Vuitton Instagram
With streetwear out of the way, other trends had time to shine in this year’s Fall/Winter 2019. Based on the runway collections we’ve seen so far, we reviewed 3 key menswear trends that may be making a major impact soon. After all, some runway trends make their way to fast fashion very quickly – just ask Zara or Forever 21.
But on the other hand, fashion brands today no longer just look to the runway for inspiration – trends can come from anywhere.
Which is why our list differed slightly.
These runway trends were highlighted after we cross-referenced them against uptrending styles from 2018, using the Omnilytics Dashboard.
Don’t take our word for it – we’ve got data to back it up.
Modern tailoringFrom left: Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabanna, Prada, Versace, Prada, DSquared2, Ermenegildo Zegna. Source: GQ.com
As mentioned above, high fashion is thinking less street (in other words, less baggy clothing) because tailoring is the way to go next season. Historically, suits have always been a staple of men’s fashion and sales have remained stable throughout 2018. The chart below shows the performance of coordinates, across online luxury retailers in Europe, US and Asia. In the context of the chart, we will be referring full-length suits as coordinates.
Suits, under the category co-ords, seeing a stable growth
Black suits dominated Fall/Winter, namely at Prada, Emporio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Dsquared2. This season’s blazers highlighted revised tailoring, encouraging us to embrace a more modern take to suiting. From double-breasted suits to informal tuxedos, all forms of suiting were revamped for a more casual feel. For example, Dsquared2 paired their suit jackets with crop tops and salopettes, or better known as ski trousers, to go with the sports-themed collection. Suiting experts, Emporio Armani stayed true to their roots and focused on their traditional Italian style suits and coordinates accented with faux fur and embossed fabrics.
This season, we have also seen a massive emphasis on accessories. Last year, we saw a whole slew of crossbody bag in menswear, riding on the streetwear wave. According to this year’s runways, bags are still here to stay. Data captured from multi-brand luxury retailer FarFetch showed that designer men’s crossbody bags priced between $200 to $900 had a healthy sellout rate of 73% in 2018.
This season, Fendi collaborated with Japanese bagmaker, Porter, for a collection of bags. As part of the collaboration, the iconic Baguette bag was introduced to the men’s collection for the first time. The traditionally women’s bag silhouette was given a more practical remix for their menswear debut, the Baguette was made into a crossbody, bonded in nylon, crocodile, shearling, and leather.
Image Source: Fendi Instagram
Besides bags, belts were also given the spotlight at Prada. The looks featured at Prada were styled with double monogram belts, to create an almost corset-like effect. Versace also adopted the belts and straps trend in a more abstract way by using it as the main motif across their collection.
Image Source: Prada Instagram
From left: Qasimi, Iceberg, Fendi, DSquared2, Marni, Kent & Curwen, Ermenegildo Zegna. Image Source: GQ.com
Last season’s oversized outerwear trend made its way back, with a technical update. Utilitarian trench coats and mega-sized puffers were seen at Marni, Versace, Off-white, Louis Vuitton and more. Skiwear served a major inspiration to the variations of outerwear seen on the runway. Virgil Abloh’s second outing as the creative director of Louis Vuitton continued to push logomania by showcasing an array of monogram puffer vests.
The puffer vests’ trend graph for 2018
We’ve seen the mega puffer trend for the past few years now but last year’s data shows puffer vest had a strong foothold in winter fashion – albeit with a slight drop during Q2 of 2018.
The casual revisions to tailoring and a more toned-down approach in streetwear resulted in a fresh elegance to menswear. Key accessories, such as belts and bags, were used as styling points, allowing the looks to be more elevated. On the other hand, winter’s signature weatherproof outers served as a practical pairing to the outfits.
While we saw a lot of formal wear, it doesn’t mean it’s time to bid hoodies and sneakers farewell. Runway trends take time and usually dilute by the time it trickles down to the high street. Therefore, it’s important to analyse how consumers are reacting to these trends before strategising any future assortments or merchandising plans.