February 23, 2019
After our first stop at NYFW, the fashion train moves along to London Fashion Week (LFW) for Fall/Winter 2019.
The LFW landscape is certainly a lot more dynamic than other cities, due to the country’s heritage and celebration of diversity. Young designers from all corners of the world, such as Duran Lantink and Tom Trandt, debut on the international stage.
From feathery ball gowns to designer rugby jerseys, we took the runway trends from LFW and cross-referenced against Omnilytics data to give you the most comprehensive guide to the latest trends in London fashion.
Themes: Up-dressing Extravanganza
After several years of streetwear chic, it seems like London is ready to go in the opposite direction. This season saw extravagant formal gowns and dresses from Molly Goddard, Mary Kantranzou, Erdem, Halpern and more.
Molly Goddard, in particular, is a designer widely known for her red carpet gowns that are mostly worn by celebrities. However, don’t underestimate the market value of these top dollar gowns. Omnilytics data shows Molly Goddard’s dresses were a hit in the Middle East. The photo below shows the stock movement of her gown from Fall 2018 on Net-a-porter AE.
Silhouette: Ruffle Some Feathers
Ruffles were among the silhouettes and details spotted from the up-dressing theme. Once a relic of old English dressing has returned in a rather grand manner. Mary Kantranzou, Roksanda, Christopher Kane, J.W Anderson and Richard Quin included ruffles as the key detail on their looks. From tops to blown up dresses, ruffles were used to create drama and volume to the body of the garments.
Data captured from Moda Operandi, a trunk show based retailer that specialises in runway collection, shows an uptrend in ruffles. The tops and dresses categories were uptrending by 3.1% and 2.3% during the Fall/Winter 2018 season.
Colour: Vivid Red
Bright fiery red stole the show at Victoria Beckham, Burberry, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Richard Malone and Simone Rocha. Burberry and Christopher Kane used the colour to contrast against neutral shades while the rest used red for the full look.
Vivid red was also the standout colour for this season as well, as data from luxury online retailer MatchesFashion shows red dresses was uptrending at 92.7%. Despite a season where darker tones tend to dominate, vivid red still managed to take a big portion of the colour palette.
Pattern: Plaids for Days
Check, or as the Brits call it, plaid is back for more. From cultural Scottish Tartans to the iconic Burberry check, the pattern is a historic piece in fashion. This season, Alexa Chung, JW Anderson, Pringle of Scotland, Vivienne Westwood and Burberry, integrated the pattern into their collections.
This season marks the sophomore collection under Ricardo Tisci’s direction at Burberry. His debut collection last spring was surprisingly mature for the streetwear maestro. This time around, he was sure to bring back some streetwear nuances, with Burberry’s traditional codes to display an accurate slice of modern British youth. The “Tisci effect” is evidently working, as our data show that the total sell-out for Burberry goods after he took the creative director role was up by 10% as compared to 6 months before.
LFW at a glance
We used data from previous seasons to help us analyse the trends surfacing on the runway for this season. The mood in London was regal with elaborate ruffled gowns stealing the show at Mary Katranzou and Erdem.
Designers painted the runway red with Burberry and Victoria Beckham using bright red as key contrast colour while the checkered pattern trails on from New York to London.
With that said…
While fashion trends take the main stage at LFW, it was hard to ignore the topic of Brexit. Tensions ran high at this season of LFW with Brexit drawing near as many foreign UK-based talents were unsure of their future in the country.
The combination of traditional British culture and international inclusivity is what has made LFW such an integral part of the global fashion scene. However, the failed EU-UK negotiations leave the European fashion industry in a state of confusion. Italian-born Creative Director of Burberry, Ricardo Tisci subliminally hints on the issue with his anti-establishment themed collection, entitled after Shakespear’s The Tempest.
Head of The British Fashion Council (BFC), Caroline Rush CBE also addressed Brexit concerns on the first day of LFW, saying “we have a big opportunity to prove that London is open, that we want to collaborate with talent around the world. That is my message: London fashion is open.”
Tensions also rose due to various climate change protests taking place during LFW.Protestors blocked major roads and entrances to fashion shows in defiance of the fashion industry’s bad ethical practices. Sustainability is still among the biggest issues faced by the fashion industry today. British lawmakers recently proposed new taxes and regulations to force fashion brands to act more sustainably.
Fashion trends are important, but it is equally important to adapt to any societal and environmental changes to ensure the industry can move forward into a progressive future.