March 9, 2019
The fashion train finally reached its final stop at Paris Fashion Week (PFW) – for this season, at least.
The world’s top fashion capital closed the Fall/Winter 19 runway with top designer brands and houses. The most anticipated shows of the week included Chanel’s final show led by Karl Lagerfeld, Tommy Hilfiger’s collaboration with Zendaya and Grace Jones’ return to the runway.
We thought we had already seen all the fashion trends possible in New York, London and Milan fashion weeks but Paris managed to pull out some surprises. As always, we took the best PFW runway trends and cross-referenced them against Omnilytics data to determine how these trends came about.
Themes: Power Shoulders
From left: Celine, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen Source: Vogue.com
After years of oversized and baggy clothing, this season sees the return of the “Power Shoulder”. Once a staple of the ‘80s fashion, power-suits, wide-shouldered dresses and over-padded outerwear made a great come-back on the runways of Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and more.
The pièce de résistance of the Givenchy collection was the sculpted curved shoulder detailing that was seen across their outerwear. The show’s opening look was a camel coloured full-length coat, which featured an interesting shoulder detailing with thick piping.
Suits and outerwear have proven to be a strong asset for Givenchy since Claire Waight Keller’s appointment as creative director 2 years ago. Her years of training at Gucci and Chloé has developed her eye for women’s tailoring and the intricate details in this collection was a testament to it. The chart below shows the fast-moving stock movement of a classic Claire Waight Keller silhouette – a single button coat from the fall-winter collection last year on FarFetch.
Chart of stock movement for a Givenchy product.
Silhouette: Cinched at the waist
From left: Stella McCartney, Dior, Tommy Hilfiger Source: Vogue.com
To bring emphasis back to the female figure, Parisian designers contrasted bold shoulders look with a cinched waist. Ever since Christian Dior’s original “New Look” from 1964, it is one of the most classic silhouettes that existed in fashion. The original silhouette involved a corset or an inner-boning that physically shrinks your waist. Of course, modern day cinching can be achieved with a mega-sized belt.
Chart of Uptrending accessories from MatchesFashion.
Belting was heavily featured at Dior, Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Tommy Hilfiger and more. The revived waistline was predominantly seen at Dior as Maria Grazia Chiuri reinvented the brand’s most well-known silhouette. The belts in this collection were inspired by the saddle bag that flew off the shelves last year. In fact, Omnilytics data shows belts uptrended 2.5% throughout 2018 at luxury multi-retailer, MatchesFashion.
Colour: Yellow Mellow
From left: Balenciaga, Nina Ricci, Hermes Source: Vogue.com
While neutral beige was the key colour in Milan, the trending colour in Paris was yellow. Various shades of the colour were also spotted off the runway with many influencers and show attendees sporting yellow throughout the 4 fashion week cities.
Acid yellow, or Chartreuse, as fashion experts would call it, was the main colour at Valentino, Off-white, Nina Ricci, Balenciaga, Issey Miyake and Marine Serre. Hermès, on the hand, went with a mustard shade.
Data from Net-a-porter shows an increased investment in the colour too. We compared the colour scheme for stocks from FW17 and FW18 and the numbers proved that Net-a-porter stocked-up on their yellow items by 73%. The chart below shows the difference in the number of yellow items in FW17 and FW18.
Chart of colour schemes from FW17 and FW18 for Net-a-porter.
From left: Off-white, Chanel, Thom Browne Source: Vogue.com
The pattern check was already trending in New York and London but it returned again in Chanel, Thom Browne, Paco Rabanne and Dior. Thom Browne’s check was more suited for the office while Dior’s check leaned towards to tartan – though the true master was Chanel.
On the last day of PFW, Karl Lagerfeld’s last show in Chanel presented an array of traditional Chanel check pattern – a set that received a standing ovation. The season’s alpine inspired collection showcased the iconic pattern on tailoring, ski wear, jackets, coat, capes and hats.
Lagerfeld spent 36 years with the brand and worked on the collection to the day before he died, so his final show as Chanel’s creative director was definitely an emotional one. Models and attendees had white roses in hand to pay tribute to the designer.
Many are curious to see how the brand will fare without Lagerfeld. Undoubtedly, products from his glory years will now become highly collectable items. Our data show an increased interest in vintage Chanel recently – the total sell-out for these items were up by 33% after his death.
Accessory: The mad hatter
From left: Nina Ricci, Dior, Loewe Source: Vogue.com
Another big accessory trend we’ve seen on the runways of Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Nina Ricci and Loewe were hats. Dior and Nina Ricci had revised versions of the bucket hat whereas Valentino’s headgear looked like a fusion between a bucket hat and a chic bonnet. Looks one to seven at Chanel featured a matching suit-fedora combination. Loewe’s hats, however, were more on the whimsical side as they centred their designs around the brand’s signature animal, the elephant.
Data from FarFetch shows the hat category had a healthy total sell-out rate of 86.1% with designer mid-priced hats ranging from $50 to $150, making the majority of the category’s assortment.
With Paris Fashion Week officially over, we bid au revior to the Fall/Winter 19 runway season! The entire week was filled with celebrations as we welcomed back some legends to the runway and bid some legends goodbye. The biggest names in Parisian fashion came out with guns flaring as we close out the 2019 collections. The major trends we spotted were:
- The key silhouette seen at PFW was the intricate bold shoulder detailing that was paired with a cinched waistline, bringing back the emphasis to the classic female figure.
- Valentino and Nina Ricci proved that striking yellow isn’t just limited to streetwear, as they showed iterations of the shade in contemporary womenswear.
- The check pattern appears to be the winner this season as it dominated through NYFW, LFW and PFW.
- Another major accessory seen on the runway was hats as the bucket hat trend neared its peak.
The trends we spotted were guided by real-time sales data and Omnilytics analytics tools to create the most comprehensive runway trend analysis supported by fact and figures.