Global Trend Adoption by Indonesian Homegrown Brands

The thriving fashion industry in Indonesia promotes ample retail opportunities for local brands. To understand the current landscape of this lucrative market, we analysed the Fall 2019 performance and trends offered by 5 Indonesian homegrown brands during the season.

By Atiqah

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Introduction

With an online population of 103 million people, Indonesia has topped the list as the fastest rising e-commerce country. Clothing is the most dominant sector for spending after travel, and is now on the course to reach USD 53 billion by 2023.

This lucrative potential has resulted in a proliferation of Indonesian homegrown brands, making waves in the country’s fashion scene. Strong domestic demand is pushing these brands to create up-to-the-minute collections, driven by consumer demands.

In this report, we reviewed five homegrown brands in Indonesia to analyse the performance and trends offered in Fall 2019. Focused on the top apparel categories – Tops, Dresses and Pants & Leggings, we then analysed how the homegrown brands fared on trend adoption, compared with global fashion brands like of COS, Zara, Mango, Topshop and River Island.

More than 1,000 data points were screened from July to September 2019 on the following homegrown brands:

  1. Beatrice Clothing
  2. Shop at Velvet
  3. Le Bijou
  4. Cloth Inc
  5. Wearstatuquo

 

Brand Performance Overview

Tops was the main volume driver, commanding more than half of the total assortment, followed by Dresses (18%) and Pants & Leggings (10%). These three categories also contributed to the most newness during the Fall 2019 season, but with the addition of Outerwear matching the contribution of Pants & Leggings.

 

Brand Performance

Overall, Indonesia’s homegrown brands practiced little discounting, yet managed to achieve high sell-outs.

 

Top Performers

Despite having the smallest assortment, Wearstatuquo performed strongly, with above average sell-out rates and little discounting. The brand was also active in introducing new arrivals throughout the season. Similarly, Le Bijou also managed to garner high sell-outs, with an almost 100% sell-out on full price items, despite having 30% of its assortment on discount. Shop at Velvet achieved an average sell-out rate but with 85% of items sold out at full price.

 

Underperformers

On the flip side, while Beatrice Clothing did deliver an above average total sell-out, it was mainly driven by discount – almost 70% of its items were discounted. The brand, which had the biggest assortment (2x higher than its counterparts) only had 27% newness. Cloth Inc also performed poorly with a mere 24% total sell-out, coupled with lower than average sell-out rate at full price and newness.

Pricing Analysis

The full price assortment for Tops and Pants & Leggings were mostly concentrated between the IDR 150,000-200,000 range, while Dresses was priced much higher, at IDR 350,000-400,000 range (Chart 3).

The sweet pricing spot for Tops and Pants & Leggings sat at the same price band, as most of the sell-outs (36% respectively) occurred at this price range. However, consumers’ willingness to pay extended to IDR 300,000 before it started decreasing on the higher price range.

Meanwhile, the sell-out price range for Dresses was much lower than its common full price, at IDR 250,000-300,000 signifying a missed opportunity. Although 24% of Dresses sold out at above IDR 400,000, the demand for this category started to decrease gradually from IDR 300,000 onwards. This was especially pronounced in the IDR 350,000-400,000 range, which showed signs of overstocking with 11 percentage point variance against sell-out. Dresses that sold out above IDR 400,000 were mainly led by Wearstatuquo and Cloth Inc, which used premium materials such as jacquard, high quality lace and satin.

 

Discounting Strategy

While only 40% of the analysed assortment was discounted during the period, some brands had to rely on discounts to drive sell-outs.

Overall, Fall 2019 displayed a higher percentage of discounted Tops compared to Dresses and Pants & Leggings. However, as depicted in Chart 5, the discounts imposed on this category was not deep, with concentration on the 10 – 19% range. This was mainly driven by Beatrice Clothing, which indicated why its most-discounted items failed to drive higher sell-out rate for the brand.

Shop at Velvet dominated the next most-common discount range for Tops, at 30 – 39%. However, it drove stronger sell-out at full price (Chart 2), proving that it offered the right products to the right consumers.

The most popular discount range for Pants & Leggings was 10 -19%, followed by 20 – 29%. The majority (87%) of the discounted items also came from Beatrice Clothing. Dresses was the least discounted category during the season.

 

First Time Discounts

Based on Chart 6, a higher concentration of products were first discounted in August and July. Interestingly, discounts were mostly introduced over the later days of the week, mostly on Fridays. Meanwhile, September had the least newly discounted items as most retailers launched new arrivals during the month.

 

Key Trends by the Global Brands

To verify whether Fall 2019 trends from international brands trickled down to the homegrown Indonesian brands, global newness during the season was analysed. Key trends observed by international brands included cinched waists, modern ruffles and wide-leg pants.

 

Cinched waists

The belted waist style was huge on Fall 2019 runways, and international brands interpreted this style not only in outerwear but also across dresses and tops. This cinched style was not limited to belts but also with sashes and ribbons. Among the brands popularising this style were Zara and H&M.

 

Modern Ruffles

Ruffles were on-trend this season with a modern twist, as seen everywhere from Erdem to Givenchy. This romantic look was seen on floral dresses and blouses paired with ruffled collars or head-to-toe tiered design. The fast fashion brands interpreted this trend subtly in solid and printed tops and dresses.

 

Wide-Leg Pants

Wide-leg and loose trousers were part of the ‘70s style that made a huge comeback on the runways this season. International brands had also adopted this trend – it accounted for more than 20% of the brands’ newness. These styles were most prevalent at Topshop, H&M and Zara.

 

Key Trends Interpreted by the Homegrown Brands

The homegrown brands’ take on the trends was more grounded and less progressive in terms of design. The majority of the pieces could come off as basics or core, with solids being more popular across the three styles.

The cinched waist style was commonly seen on blouses and midi dresses, and not just limited to belts, sashes and drawstrings. The ruched and knotted design elements were also common to emphasise the cinched waist effect. Wearstatuquo, Shop at Velvet and Le Bijou were the biggest contributors to this trend.

Meanwhile, the ruffle trend accounted for almost 10% of the homegrown brands’ newness. It was mostly done minimally, with ruffles added on the hem and sleeves of boxy blouses and loose dresses. While this trend was paired with graphic prints such as polka dots and florals among the international brands, the homegrown brands remained grounded with their solids.

The wide-leg trousers, which were mostly found at Le Bijou were also interpreted minimally with drawstring and belted waist. Similarly, solid colours in black and nude were more popular for this trend. This relaxed silhouette trend commanded nearly 30% of this season’s pants new arrivals.

 

Conclusion

Main Findings

Understanding Local Demand: Implementing minimal discounting online did not hinder the homegrown brands in achieving strong sell-outs. In fact, these brands reported good sell-out at full price, which validated that they well understood the local demands despite interpreting global trends in less progressive styles.

Shop at Velvet, Wearstatuquo and Le Bijou portrayed this state of business well as they continue to offer Indonesian consumers the latest trends interpreted in basics and minimalist styles.

 

Opportunity on Prints: While the homegrown brands have managed to capture the local demand through current offerings, there is an apparent gap in the solid vs. prints department. More than 90% of the assortments this season were made up of solid pieces, while the majority of printed offerings were stripes.

This signals a huge missed opportunity, especially when prints have proven to be a recurring success in-season and cross-seasonally, as seen with florals, polka dots and animal prints.

 

Next Steps for Brands

Evaluate Pricing Diligently: Pricing is crucial especially if it involves the volume-driver categories, such as Tops and Dresses. Consistent monitoring on price by category and bestsellers help brands spot price opportunities and align against consumers’ acceptance.

As depicted in Chart 3 and 4, the findings revealed huge missed opportunity in the IDR 250,000-300,000 price band for Tops and Pants & Leggings, that homegrown brands should tap into. Getting the price right not only enables brands to capture the right audience but also ultimately help drives sales.

 

Innovate to Differentiate: Although Indonesian consumers evidently favour minimalist designs, simply recycling similar silhouettes and styles would lead brands to lose market share with the growing number of local and international competitors.

Brands should be empowered to take calculated risks based on data-backed insights, to experiment on progressive assortments in small capsules, or to associate brand with social movements. Wearstatuquo for instance, has joined the country’s fashion industry efforts in promoting sustainable fashion by introducing collections made from rescued fabrics. This appeals to younger consumers, which elevates the brand’s image.