Top Streetwear Brands’ Performance

Streetwear is no longer reserved for the sneaker-heads and the skaters - it is now the strongest growth driver for luxury fashion. This report analyses the current streetwear scene (read to find out which brand dominated!) and what else is in store for this trend.

Written by Atiqah KamarudinMay 10, 2019


Streetwear has become a global phenomenon – a dominant cultural force and influence not only in the fashion sphere, but also in music, art, and pop culture. The once-niche subculture has shaped the menswear category to driving significant growth over the last few years. Aggressively infiltrating the high fashion world, collaborations from Supreme x Louis Vuitton to Palace x Ralph Lauren were seen targeting Millennials and Generation Z.

According to Bain & Company’s 2018 Luxury Study, streetwear is one of the major driving forces behind the growth of luxury fashion. Its rapid prevalent success and growth have led to speculation – is it now on the brink of saturation?

In this report, we explored the performance of top streetwear brands over the past year, along with the influence of high fashion on their immediate future trajectory.

More than 11,000 data points were screened over menswear from 5 labels – Supreme, Vetements, A Bathing Ape, Off-White and Undercover listed on Farfetch, MatchesFashion and Selfridges for a 12-month duration, from April 2018 to March 2019.


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Trade Performance Analysis

New-In Movement

Total new arrivals, also commonly known as ‘drops’ in the streetwear scene, showed an upward trend over the past year (Chart 1), with SS19 drops peaked in Feb ‘19.

Cross analysing the key metrics showed similar up-trending fashion, with total sell-out overtaken new arrivals at 2x the average count. By the end of Mar ‘19, sell-out was significantly higher at 3x more compared to a year ago, signalling continuous popularity in streetwear.


Performance by Brand

A Bathing Ape chartered reliable results ahead of the others with an astounding 100% sell-out (Chart 2). This means that every item displayed have sold out at least once, and at full price strong. The brand also showed a high productivity level with new-in rate recorded at 85%.

Supreme, a master of the drop strategy – releasing newness in limited quantities without much-advanced notice, delivered 72% sell-out at total full price. Similarly, Off-White achieved 71% sell-out but with a much more extensive assortment (3x above the average count).

On the contrary, Vetements and Undercover were heavy on discounting. With the least newness rate at 65%, Vetement’s high sell-out performance (86%) was primarily driven by discounts, claiming just 35% sell-out at full price.



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The Leading Categories

Tops and Outerwear were the commanding categories in streetwear, with more than 50% contributions on newness and sell-out, respectively (Chart 3). Although Tops’ new-in contribution was slightly higher than Outerwear (26% vs 25%), the latter category proved to be more popular with sell-out contribution surpassed Tops’ (30% vs 24%).

‘Others’ included categories of Jeans, Shorts, Pants, Jewellery, Swimwear & Beachwear, Jumpsuits & Dungarees and Eyewear.


New-In Movement

Over the past year, Tops and Outerwear surpassed all other categories in the majority months with the most newness launched (Chart 4).

It is interesting to note that the main categories in streetwear have launched newness tailing behind the fashion seasonality. On the timeline analysed, the brands peaked over Summer ‘18, with small spikes over Fall ‘18 starting Aug ‘18, leading up to Holiday peak in Nov/Dec ‘18. The next peak was followed by Spring/Summer launch in Feb ‘19.


Key Silhouettes

Casual silhouettes continued to dominate streetwear over the last 12 months, as seen across loose-fit Tees, oversized Sweaters and casual Jackets, and baggy Jeans. However, this is about to change as we observed increasingly tailored and fitted silhouettes down the runways for menswear. The next chapter dived deeper into this shift.


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The New Shift in Menswear

After seasons of invading the menswear fashion with sporty athleisure vibes, the streetwear culture is finally making way for tailoring.

The recent FW19 and SS19 menswear fashion runways showcased a prominent shift away from the baggy athleisure styles to usher in smarter, sartorial tailored pieces. From Balenciaga – one of the first fashion houses that dived into luxury hoodies and sneakers, to Dior, chic tailored suiting complete with dress shoes became stars of the shows. The trend started creeping in SS19 but went full swing in FW19.

Brands synonymous with streetwear such as Off-White, Raf Simons, and A-Cold-Wall have all smartened up in the recent FW19 fashion shows. Key looks featured included suits and blazers in regular silhouettes, marrying classic tailored fashion with streetwear styles.


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Tailored-Style Newness

A variation of keywords such as ‘tailored’, ‘smart’, ‘slim’, ‘fitted’ and ‘classic’ were identified to examine if a more refined style or silhouette has taken off across the five brands in focus.

The modern tailoring silhouette took up 20% of the total newness, where it showed an upward trajectory beginning the second half of 2018 (Chart 5). The brands introduced nearly 3x more tailored style in Feb ‘19 than in the previous months. This movement validated the new shift in line with the trends highlighted in SS19 and FW19 runways.



Category Contributions

Outerwear and Tops were the most significant contributors to the tailoring trend. Outerwear new arrivals saw an injection of blazers, double-breasted coats and smart jackets with a streetwear vibe. Meanwhile, slim-fitted and less oversized t-shirts and shirts were seen in Tops.

Jeans and Pants were also riding on this trend. The Jeans category observed increased newness in slim fit, less baggy silhouettes, while more tailored trousers were seen in Pants.


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Meet the Author

Atiqah Kamarudin

Nur Atiqah Kamarudin is a Senior Business Intelligence Analyst at Omnilytics. With past experience at Nielsen and Euromonitor, she has spent years analysing data and unearthing insights to help brands and retailers make informed decisions. She currently produces reports on the fashion industry and its changing retail scene across the United States, United Kingdom, Australia and Southeast Asia.

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